New craft

I made a hairband and bow for someone in the area who was looking for one.  She said she loves it, that it's perfect; now, she won't contact me for the arrangements for her to pay and pick it up.  I guess I should have asked for the money ahead of time, eh?

The band is stretch lace.  I had it in my massive stash.  The ribon is a satin/organza mix. 

I just hope she pays me for it, because it won't fit me and it's the wrong size for all my grandkids.

In other news, it's 11 days till Christmas and I have NO decorating done.  The boxes are here, but nothing is up or out or anything.  I'm really struggling this year with even bothering with the whole thing.  I know I need to, but I'm not very motivated.

I will get done, and the decorating will be finished, and it will be okay.  Right now I'm just really tired.  I'm so glad God is here for me to lean on, because I am at the end of my own strength.  It's very comforting that He will never leave me or forsake me and that I am never alone.

God is good. 

Panty-Making Tutorial

(note: double-clicking on the photos will show them in a larger size)

Panty Tutorial

Supplies needed:
Approx. ½-3/4 yard of fashion fabric, with stretch going side to side
Crotch lining fabric – cotton or cotton blend; should be a knit of some kind

(I used an old t-shirt)
Lingerie or foldover elastic
Optional: stretch lace for waistband
Polyester thread
Ballpoint or stretch needle, size 11, give or take
Pins
Scissors
Lots of patience
Sewing machine

This will cover everything from sewing the crotch piece in to finishing the waist and legs.

Cut one front piece, one back piece, one crotch out of the panty fabric, and one from the lining fabric.
Place the crotch piece and the front body piece, both of the panty fabric, right sides together. Against the back side of the body piece, place the cotton crotch liner, right side in. Pin in place to prevent sliding.
Using an overlock stitch or a medium width/medium length zigzag stitch to provide stretch, stitch the seam.

Lay the part you’ve sewn on a flat surface with the crotch lining on top.
Take the crotch lining and pull it away from the fabric, smoothing it out.
Follow this with the panty body piece. Roll the body piece from the upper edge in toward the crotch piece, keeping as neat as possible.

Get the other panty piece and begin rolling it up like the first one. Keep it on top of the panty fabric crotch piece.

Fold the last part of the unsewn panty piece over so it is right sides together with the crotch piece. Reach over behind the roll you made first and get the panty liner fabric. Bring it over the top of all the fabric and toward the other two raw edges on the right.

Pin as indicated. You now have a “burrito,” as referred to by another much smarter earlier writer.

Using overcast stitch or medium length/medium width zigzag stitch, sew across the three layers of fabric created by this process.

As shown below, you can now unroll the fabric and turn it right side out. You should have one shiny side and one matte side.

To make it easier to apply elastic to the legs, baste the crotch pieces together a scant ¼” from the outer edges using a long straight stitch.

I played with the photo below a bit just so you can see the stitching line better.

Now, take the leg elastic and the leg sections of the panties, quarter and mark them with straight pins.

Following the pin guides, match up the elastic and the panty, right sides together. If you are using plush lingerie elastic, the plush part of the elastic will be pointing up at this time.

Using a narrow lightning zigzag stitch (I use 2.0/2.5 or 2.0/2.0) or a narrow, long zigzag stitch, sew the elastic to the panty. Align the outer edges as much as possible. Stretch the elastic to fit. Try not to stretch the fabric or it will not lay flat in the end. Go slow. It’s much better to take your time than to hurry and have a mess on your hands.

Below you will see a picture of the elastic after it has been applied to the panty fabric. You’ll notice little bits of fabric sticking out from under the edges of the elastic here and there. In order to make the rest of the project finish more neatly, it is important to carefully trim that fabric so it doesn’t show.

If you look below you can see where I’m trimming extra fabric from below the elastic on this pair of panties. Go slowly so you don’t cut the elastic!

This shows the leg area after trimming.

Next you take the elastic you sewed to the leg openings, turn it under, and stitch it again so that the edge of the elastic doesn’t show from the outside.

Here you can see the legs with the elastic sewn to the inside so that only the trimmed edge shows on the outside. The plush, soft edge is toward the body.

Next, sew one leg opening shut. Start at the top and work your way to the bottom. Ease as needed so that the edges match as much as possible.

You will have a raw edge left after sewing. It’s best to tack this piece down so it looks more smooth and won’t be rubbing against your leg.

Find which way the elastic will fold the most smoothly, turn it in that direction, and proceed to tack it down using the same stitch you used for attaching the elastic to the panties in the first place.

This topstitching will leave you with a smooth, attractive leg join as well as decreasing the chance of any raveling at the edge of the elastic edging.

For this project I have chosen to alter a regular panty into a hipster or low-rise style. I don’t have a specific pattern for one, but it is easy enough to alter a full-cut pair with a ruler and rotary cutter or scissors. I’ll be using stretch lace for the upper band on this pair so I can show you how to apply it.

First, you decide how much you want to take off the top. I don’t want mine too short or they’ll roll down; therefore, I’m just going to remove a piece the width of the stretch lace band, which also just happens to be the width of my ruler.

Align the front and back of the panty so that the top is even all the way around. Fold in half and place on a ruler mat. Using the ruler and rotary cutter or marking with a water soluble pen or marker and then cutting with the scissors, remove the desired amount from the waist area.

See photos below for clarification.

All that’s left now is to apply the waistband. You can either use elastic and the same technique as you did with the legs, or you can use stretch lace. For the sake of learning, this example uses stretch lace. First off, sew up the remaining leg seam and finish off the bottom just the way you did the other one.
Now, cut a piece of stretch lace the measurement of your waist/hip area minus 6”-8” depending on the stretchiness of the lace and your waist measurement – the larger your measurement, the more you can take off.

Using the zigzag stitch from earlier, sew the short edges of the stretch lace right sides together. Repeat. Trim the raw edge, turn to one side, and apply the zigzag stitch again to tack down the edge so it lays flat.

Quarter and pin the elastic and the panty like you did with the leg elastic earlier. It might be tempting to think you can do this without marking, but it is far better to take the few extra minutes to measure and mark.

Slide the stretch lace over the outside of the panty, right sides facing out on both. Align and join the lace and panty where the pins match up. The raw edge of the panty will be in line with the top of the stretch lace.

If you have a larger waist or hipline, like I do, you may want to divide your quarters in half in order to keep the stitching a little more even. It is not essential, but it will help you a bit and your stitches will look a bit more professional since they will be more evenly divided along the top line of the panty.

Now, using a regular width lightning zigzag stitch or a normal zigzag stitch, attach the stretch lace to the top of the panty, stretching the lace as needed to fit. Try not to stretch the fabric as it can cause puckering. The thing to remember is to go slowly and not try to fly through it all.

Here is the finished inside view of the top of the panty with the stretch lace applied.

Using your scissors, carefully trim the fabric between the stitching and the top of the panty; leave only the stretch lace as a waistband. The zigzag stitch you used to attach the stretch lace will help prevent raveling.

The trimming is all done.

Here are my finished hipsters.

This method or any combination of it can be used for hip huggers, full briefs, bikinis, or any other style of panty you’d like to make.

working on Tobie's stuff

It was time for me to make my grandson Tobie some clothes once I got done with Alex's. This first shirt I made a mock layered long sleeve by adding the seam allowance and some room for the hem turn up to the top of the piece that goes from the bottom of the short sleeve to the bottom of the long sleeve, if that makes any sense. I put the pieces right sides together and serged them. I folded up the hem and stitched it in place. Voila - layered-look long sleeves! It was easier than I thought. I like how it looks. I was a bit concerned that since I didn't follow a specific pattern for it I might make it and regret I hadn't gotten out the patterns I have and used one of them.


This is camouflage Ooga Booga fabric with a forest green rib knit for the bands on the sleeves, which I just added because I wanted to, and for the neck band. It's actually the same pattern as the shirt in the first picture, I believe. It just shows you the different things you can do with a pattern just by changing the way you cut the fabric and assemble it; you can get many different looks from one pattern if you're creative enough. I like trying different things, anyhow. I dread boredom or stick-in-the-mud-ness. It would drive me crazy to always do something the same way all the time.


I made this shirt from a Burda pattern. Now I've not used Burda patterns before because a lot of them don't include seam allowances and I thought it was going to be a pain in the pants. However, it was part of a $1.99 sale at Hancock's, I think, so I got this one to try for Tobie. I have to say it went together remarkably well. I will have to use this pattern again and again. I'll probably make him another shirt for Christmas, maybe with long sleeves, and possibly all one color. The other option is to use a color-block style with different solids for each pattern piece - front, back, each sleeve, and either the whole hood or each half of the hood.


Here's a back view of the hoodie. I really like this shirt. I love geckos and other lizard-type critters. The one thing I think might have helped a bit was if I had bothered to go get my coverstitch machine from the quilt shop that does repairs. I've been under the weather this week, though, and didn't want to expose a bunch of people to whatever it is I have. I actually cancelled 3 appointments this week - one with the pain doc, one with the surgeon, and a sick appointment with our primary doc. That's okay because honey already had an appointment with the primary doc for Monday so they rescheduled me for an hour after his and we'll just go in together. We're going to get the machine after we go to the doc since it's in the same general direction, anyhow...nothing is close to home. It's all a nice hike. Most of the time I like it that way. The only time it's trouble is when there's an urgent medical problem.

Hubby saw this shirt finished up this morning when he got up and he really likes it. He says my stuff is like the kind of stuff you can buy at a store. I don't know. I keep trying to do better and better. I've never been one to settle for mediocrity, except maybe when it comes to dusting and keeping the piles of magazines and patterns and sale ads under control. I used to be a lot more anal about it but now it's like it doesn't matter so much any more.

I think this hood will probably fit better than any of the Big4 patterns I've used. I made a jacket from one last year and I declare, that hood is 4 or 5 inches too tall for my head! It's also so wide from front to back that I can't even tie it if I want to see my fact. I'd like to get busy this week, remove that hood, and cut it down to where it will fit like it's supposed to. Plus sized people don't have humongous heads, for crying out loud.

So, now I need to make Tobie his pants or long shorts - no, I still haven't decided which - and then some boxer briefs. Once those are done I can either send them off or, God willing, fly down to Tampa and take them to the kids myself. It's been 5 years since we have seen each other. That's a long, long time.

I need to go. I'm getting really tired. Maybe I can even sleep in the bed tonight! Usually I'm asleep for an hour, than awake for one or two, and it goes on like that all night. It's been this way for a few years now; it's getting old.

SWAP...sewing with a plan/purpose

I have been busy the last several days making some clothes for my grandchildren in Florida. I do a lot of sewing for the kids up here, and I felt like it was a good time to do some special things for Alex and Tobie. This is the first outfit I made for Alex. The top is made from Ooga Booga fabric and the pants are made from rib knit. I really like this look. I hope she does, too. I added the rose because, as usual, I messed up the V on the inset. I never can get those things right! However, I think the flower looks good on the top.

This outfit is made from Laurel Burch cat fabric and some midweight black broadcloth. I tied the two pieces together by making the upper ruffle on the top out of the black fabric and adding the cat appliques on the pants legs. It has been a while since I did an applique; fortunately, I remembered how to do it. I did have to clean the iron because one of the back pieces of the double fusible interfacing came off and it got the iron all gooey. I haven't done that in a while. The interfacing was old, though, and it tends to separate much easier when it gets older for some reason. The iron looks nice and clean now. I need to clean it more often; it would make things easier in the long run.

This dress is really kinda neat, though the directions for gathering the top part weren't very clear. There is elastic on the bottom gathered part; I thought when I bought it that it might be shirred, but instead it's just elastic inside a casing. The top gathered part is gathered and stitched. The directions merely say to pull it up to fit. I'm not sure I like that. It would have been a lot nicer to tell how wide to leave it. The lines also don't go quite far enough out on one side and the gathering ended up a little uneven. Of course, most people who look at it won't see those flaws...sewists are most critical of their own work.

The panties and cami in this picture were made with patterns in the Ottobre 4/04 issue. It took me 3 tries to get the piping on the panties right. Next time I will baste it in place before using the serger to sew the pieces together. I like the look of this pattern. Alex doesn't like her panties covering her tummy so this is a perfect design for her. It's also neat that this cami can double as a tank top.

This set was made from a Kwik Sew pattern that is now out of print. I don't know quite why they took their panties for girls and briefs for boys out of circulation. They could be making a lot of money if people could buy them somewhere besides Etsy, Ebay or other auction sites. I know the sewing group I moderate looks for these patterns and grabs them up as soon as they show up in a listing.

The cami in this set has lace across the top of it. I sewed it into place with two side by side lines of zigzag stitching and then used my embroidery scissors to trim the fabric that was underneath it, cutting close to the sewing. It was my second try at the lace, though I've done it before. Somehow I got the lace on the first top out of alignment and the point of the V ended up pointing to the left of the top instead of straight down. I must admit, though, that it looks nice and dressy. I really enjoyed making these sets.

This outfit was made for my youngest grand-daughter Anna Belle Rose. She's a precious little thing with a beautiful smile and she has her Oma wrapped right around her little finger. It's so good that she's close and I see her often; it helps ease the pain of having 3 grandchildren living on the property next to ours that I can't visit or call or talk to. I keep praying Becky will let go of the hate and bitterness she is holding on to so tightly, but at this point praying is all I can do. Anyhow, this is also made from an Ottobre pattern set. I made it a little on the large side but she will be able to wear it all winter long with no problem. Mom and Dad can even put socks and a onesie under it and it won't be too tight on her. It has plenty of room for her cloth diapers, too.




These are panties I made with the scraps from Alex's outfits. They are designated for a charity donation. Once I get Tobie's things done, I will add the extra boys' briefs I make to the girls' panties and send them to the lady I know who gives them to the spouse abuse shelter in her town. Our little area has way enough clothes for the moms and kids who need to find refuge in the shelter here. Not every shelter is so blessed. Not only that, but people often forget that clothing includes panties. Jeans and shirts and shorts and skirts and dresses are well and good, but you need undies, too....at least I do!


I have two of Tobie's shirts cut out. I need to cut out one more and then I'm going to make him a pair of jams, or board type big long shorts, but not the kind that he can house....I think that looks nasty and it makes the young men look like they don't have any respect for their own bodies. I'm also going to try to make him a pair of pants. It might be a bit tough because he's in that pre-adolescent pudgy stage and he's 1200 miles away so fitting is non-existent, but I'm gonna give it a good try. If nothing else, I'll make him some sweat-style pants out of a lighter fabric since it doesn't get all that cold in Florida.


Okay. I need to go do some dishes and eat and then get to sewing. I just wanted to put this in writing before I forgot.

recovering

It's been almost 2 weeks since I had my surgery. I'm starting to feel a lot better.

I had carpal tunnel and median nerve release in my left arm. The median nerve is the same one affected by carpal tunnel syndrome; it's just further up the arm. My scar for that one starts just above my left inner elbow and proceeds about 8 inches down toward the wrist in a long, wide zigzag fashion. I went on Monday and the doc removed the stitches and applied a fresh dressing, which you can see in the pic I posted. My fingers work well, I'm doing simple physical therapy exercises as well. I'm hoping that will give me a jump start on things once I'm out of this ace wrap.

I'm hoping that when I go back next Saturday I can get the dressing and ace wraps off and just wear a splint. I'm dying for a shower. Hubby and I have worked out a routine for my bathing - thank goodness we have a garden tub! However, I do need a nice, long soaking shower.

J has had several smaller seizures since he started on the Tegretol. I'm hoping they call the doc to let him know. It's hard for him knowing his dream of driving a big truck, one he had trained for and already done for a few years, is now out of his reach permanently. Understandably, they won't allow someone with seizure disorder to drive an 18-wheeler. He did qualify for Medicaid because neither he nor his girlfriend have worked in over 2 months; that will help with the cost factor. He also found out that because of all this mess he qualifies for Voc Rehab assistance with job seeking as well as training for any job he will be able to do considering his health issues. It will also benefit me because they won't be hitting me up for money for the doctor or for medication.

I'm tired. This arm makes it very hard to sleep when added to my other diagnoses because it's tough to find a position to sleep in without hurting the arm or face or lying on my tummy; pretty much, I hang out in my recliner. I even got one of those chair-type bed pillows but it interferes with hubby's sleep space as well as mine. I just want it over. I want my arm back.

I ordered some electrtic scissors. It's going to be a while before I can use the regular ones, and I need to sew stuff for Christmas so I needed something to help me out. At least with the scissors I can cut the items out more quickly; that will give me more time to sew. I'll need that due to the decreased mobility in my arm.

Okay. I need to get going. Blessings to all.

Tutorial for boy's briefs - Part 1

Note: Clicking on the photos will open up a larger sized one so you can see the details better.

Assemble your pattern pieces. If it is a multi-sized pattern, it is best to trace the size you need and cut the pieces out so you don't ruin the other sizes; it is also easier to cut the right size out if you do this.


Lay out the pattern pieces on your fabric. I chose a print for the body of the briefs and a solid for the fly facing, fly stay and leg bands, so you only see the brief body in this picture. You can pay a good amount for pattern weights or go to the local hardware store like we did and get several 3" washers and use them. The last pattern weights I saw for sale were nothing but washers covered in fabric anyway!


I traced around the pattern since I am using weights. Notice on the pattern that I transferred the marking for the fly stay. This will be an important marking to have.


Fold back the pattern along the fly stay line and mark the fabric on both sides - you can do the back side after cutting out the brief body piece by turning the pattern piece upside down and folding it so the line shows.


Here you can see the line traced onto the fabric. You can use a washable marking device; I used a regular fine point marker since this will be covered and it really doesn't matter if it washes out or not.


Cut out the fly stay, fly facing and leg band, making sure you have the stretch and grain of the fabric going in the right direction.


Here are my three solid color pattern pieces cut out from a coordinating fabric.


A picture of the pattern pieces all cut out.


Leaving a small amount extra on each end, pin the fly facing to the brief body. If you are using a printed fabric or one with an obvious right and wrong side, you want these pieces right sides together. With my fabric, it doesn't matter because ribbing is the same on both sides. Sew to the body with a medium width zigzag stitch or narrow serger stitch. I prefer the regular machine since there is so much regular stitching on these briefs. With my standard Kenmore, the width is 2.5 and the length is 2; with my Janome QC4800 the length and width are both 2.5.


Here are both the fly facings sewn to the brief body.


With the seam facing away from the brief body, fold the rest of the facing over it and then under the seam. Pin in place. You will have leftover fabric overlapping onto the brief body.


Using the same medium zigzag stitch, sew on the top side of the brief close to the seam line. This will leave you with a narrow band of fly facing covering the seam.


Turn the brief over and trim the excess fabric from the fly facing, being careful not to cut through the brief body piece.


Lay the brief body on a table so that the fly pieces overlap and the dart at the top of the briefs matches up. Pin along the fly stay lines from the top of the brief body to the bottom of the fly facing, leaving room for the machine to baste the center piece.


Using a long straight stitch, baste the center pieces together. This will make the next several steps much easier than if it is left un-basted.


Using an iron on the appropriate setting, fold the fly stay in half lengthwise and press it into place. If using fabric with a print, fold the fabric right sides together.


Open up the fabric and, one side at a time, fold the center in to the middle and press it into place, wrong sides together. Don't iron it back and forth or you will stretch the knit out of shape.


A picture of the two pieces of fly stay pressed as directed with folded sides up. It is, in effect, a piece of self-fabric bias tape.


Slide a piece of cardboard between the front and back of the brief body to keep the pieces from being pinned together during the next step.
Carefully pin the fly stay, folds down, along the fly stay line you traced onto the fabric, having the line in the center of the fly stay. Make sure both pieces of brief body fabric are under the fly stay. The bottom edges of the facing will be right at the outer edge of the fly stay.


(Note: at this point you may need to switch to a larger needle to avoid skipped stitches, if you haven't already done so.)
Using your medium width zigzag stitch, sew a seam down both sides of the fly stay, making sure not to catch in the back of the briefs while sewing. Check to make sure that at least one of the seam lines catches in the edges of the fly facing and up to the top of the edge of the fabric above it.


Lay the briefs on your work space with the waist toward you. Folding up the top piece of the overlapping fabric, pin the bottom piece to the back of the brief wrong sides together, matching notches.


Turn the brief over so the back is facing up, placing the part you pinned toward you and the other part of the free flap away from you. Roll the top edge of the brief down toward the pinned edges of the brief.

...Continued in next post...

Tutorial for boy's briefs - Part 2

...Continued from last entry...


Bring the flap of fabric up and around the rolled-up briefs body so that it matches up with the pinned part. Removing one pin at a time, add this flap to the other two pieces of fabric, with the right side facing the other pieces.


Back view of pinned sections.


Front view of pinned sections.


Using an overlock stitch, a slightly longer than normal straight stitch finished with a zigzag stich, or using a serger, sew and finish off the edges of the crotch seam.


Turn right side out and pin the lower edges of the fly stays to the darts on the front of the brief body.


Starting at the pins, baste the edges of the crotch pieces together. This will make applying the leg bands easier.


A pic of the basted crotch area.


Take the leg bands and, right sides together, sew the short ends together with a straight stitch.


Fold the pieces wrong sides together, lengthwise, and mark the center opposite the seam. Mark the center opposite the crotch seam on the brief body. Match up the seams and centers and pin. Stretching the leg band to fit, pin in a couple places between the other pins so that it is evenly distributed. Sew bands to brief body using a medium zigzag stitch.


Fold the bands over the seams and under them, then pin to make a narrow leg facing.


Using the medium zigzag stitch, sew around the top side of the binding close to the seam.


Picture of the leg bands applied to the brief body


Cut elastic as directed in your pattern. Note: My pattern calls for 1 1/4" elastic, but since my grandsons wear a size 6, I used a 1" elastic instead. I've also used FOE. It really doesn't matter as long as it looks nice.


Using a straight stitch, sew the elastic right sides together at the short ends. On most waistband elastics, one side is a bit softer than the other; this is how you can tell which side is the right side.


Finger-press the seam open and sew it open using a lightning zigzag stitch.


At this point I applied the top only of the size tag over the center back seam.


Using pins, quarter and mark the elastic and the brief body. Slide the elastic over the briefs and line up the pins and attach the elastic to the briefs, placing the wrong side of the elastic against the right side of the brief body.


Sew the elastic to the brief body, using a lightning zigzag stitch and stretching the elastic as needed.


Trim the fabric under the elastic, being careful not to cut through the elastic or briefs fabric. At this point I attached the bottom of the size tag with the lightning zigzag stitch so it conceals the center seam; this helps prevent irritation and itchiness.


A picture of the finished briefs.


A picture of the 3 pair of briefs I made this weekend for my daughter's 3 potty-trained boys.